Step one: Apply for and receive an ATF-approved Form 1.  Your ATF Form 1 is your US government permission to legally make, own, and use a silencer.  

Step two: Engrave your silencer with the ATF-required markings.  Details below.  

Step three: Convert your Suppressor as outlined here.


In order to make your DIY Titanium Suppressor into a firearm silencer, you will need some good tools. You will be drilling very hard heat-treated Titanium and aerospace stainless steel. Good cobalt or carbide drill bits are recomended, or sharp new standard HSS TiN bits may work for you. You'll also need some simple hand tools, cutting oil, and most significantly a drill press with a vise mounted on its table. For the Z10 a handy individual can get away with just a bench vise and a hand drill, but you’ll probably want the drill press with a vise on its table for the bigger Suppressors.


After you have received an ATF-approved Form 1, the next step is to engrave the main body with the required “Markings” that you used on your Form 1 application. These markings must exactly match the data on your Form 1.

Required markings are: Serial Number, Caliber, Model (if you put one on your Form 1 application), Name of Manufacturer (You or your Trust), and your City and State.

These markings must be a minimum of 1/16” tall and 0.003” deep into the metal (not just the coating). Click Here

Local sources for engraving include your gunsmith, a laser engraver, a jewelry store, or the local trophy and awards shop.

After you have engraved your Main Body Tube per your ATF-approved Form 1, you may legally make your parts into a firearm Silencer.



Notice that your Holder has precision cuts to exactly match your X Baffles (Or, X-Cups as they are called in a solvent trap) and Front Cap, even though these parts are different diameters, and the Front Cap is threaded. Keep the parts straight with the Holder while inserting or removing so no excess force is required, and no damage is done to the Holder. Use a large straight blade screwdriver to lightly open the Holder just a bit, but do not force or bend it. Your part must be fully inserted, square, and tight within the Holder. A few light taps from a wooden mallet will ensure that each part is fully seated in the holder.
After a part is fully seated in the Holder, Oil and screw in the Threaded Drill Bushing just fingertip tight. WARNING: Bushings are thin at the tips of the threads, and will break if too much torque is applied. Tools or full hand strength should only be used to remove a bushing, not to install it.
Drill at about 200 RPM (very slow speed) with a lot of cutting oil. Any oil is okay, but a cutting oil or Tap Magic is best. You will need to push steadily and quite forcefully to drill Titanium or heat-treated stainless – that’s why you need a drill press. Add more oil often to keep heat down. If oil smokes, cool by adding more oil.

If you overheat its cutting edges, your drill bit will soften and dull, making it impossible to cut the Titanium.
Do not let the part twist in the Holder while drilling. If the part starts to twist in the Holder, move the holder to a spot one-fourth outside the end of the vise, with just three-fourths of the slotted end of the Holder inside the vise. This will allow the Holder to grip the part with more force.
Leave the part in the Holder and vise and remove the Threaded Drill Bushing. Continue to the final drill size for the hole diameter you have selected for your Suppressor, and drill to enlarge the pilot hole that you made with the Bushing.
Drill each part to about 0.060” larger than the largest bullet diameter. Read the Bullet Clearance Diameter section above for more sizing details.
For Z10 X Baffles only, mount the X Baffle (X-Cup) sideways in a padded vise and drill the side Mouse Holes to the same size as the main Center Holes, or one drill size smaller. Failure to pad the vise with wood or leather will damage the Z10 X Baffles.

Make it!

Your Baffles and Front Cap are now each, individually, classified as Silencers under ATF regulations. None can be sold or transferred without ATF approval.

Deburr each hole, but do not chamfer excessively. After drilling the Z10 Mouse Holes, re-drill the main hole to ensure that no burrs are in the bullet’s path. (Note: Any burrs or sharp edges that remain will burn up when firing your gun and will shoot sparks out the end of your suppressor. These are tiny burning bits of metal. It may take many rounds of firing before these undesirable sparks are all burnt out. Damage may occur if you fail to fully deburr your parts.) Wash all parts with dish soap, water, and a toothbrush to completely remove all drillings and oil. Dry. Completely lubricate all threads with Vaseline or a light grease. Wipe off excess.

Break-in the Front Cap threads. With a fully assembled Main Body Tube / Internal Components (see Assembling below), twist the greased Front Cap threads into the greased body threads, just fingertip tight. The Front Cap will ‘clamp down’ on the stack of internal components. Remove only the Front Cap. Repeat 10-20 Times, each time increasing the torque if it continues to twist smoothly.

Your Front Cap should now travel in and out of the Main Body Tube smoothly, even when fully torqued. If you feel any resistance or roughness, stop and aggressively clean threads with a solvent and wire brush to remove all debris, re-grease, and start over.
Torque the greased Front Cap threads to 5 ft-lbs for the Z10, 10 ft-lbs for the Z15 or Z17. End by wiping off all grease, but do not use any soap or cleaning solvent on the threads.

Keep threads lightly lubricated with a trace of grease until you choose to Rocksett the Z15 or Z17 Front Cap in place. (Do not Rocksett the Z10 Front Cap as rimfire Suppressors require occasional internal maintenance/cleaning.) Only remove Front Cap in a dust-free environment on a clean surface.
For suppressors firing Center-Fire cartridges, we recommend that after a few dozen shots to “settle in” your suppressor and verify all aspects of function, you semi-permanently install your Front Cap to the Main Body Tube with Rocksett. Rimfire cartridges do not generate enough heat and pressure to continually burn residue from inside the Suppressor and will require occasional internal cleaning.

To semi-permanently install the Front Cap on a Z15 or Z17: Clean threads aggressively with a solvent and a brush, fully assemble internal parts, apply Rocksett very sparingly to Front Cap threads, install Front Cap (Left-handed threads), and torque to 15 ft-lbs.
Let the Rocksett dry for 24 hours or more. (Rocksett does not chemically ‘cure’) Drying can be hastened by heating to 1750F for a few hours and then to 3000F for a few more. Click Here


On a flat, clean surface, make a stack of all the internal components. All Center Tube must be pointing up in this stack! Start with the Secondary Baffles – each with the Center Tube up. The first part on the table will be furthest forward in the assembled suppressor. Stack all of the Secondary Baffles – Center Tubes up. Next the Primary X Baffle (Blast Baffle made of more durable metal) – again with the Center Tube up. (Primary X Baffle is a different metal and a different color) Finally, for the Z15 or Z17, stack the Sleeve with the inside ridge down. (Sleeve ends are not the same.)

Z10 Assembly Schematic Drawing
Z15 Assembly Schematic
Z15 Assembly Schematic Drawing

All X Baffle Center Tubes must point toward firearm.
The Heavy Primary X Baffle must always be closest to the firearm.

Notice that each piece has ‘locked’ into the adjacent piece if you have them correctly positioned. And the top rim in this stack has been shaped to exactly match a corresponding ledge inside the Main Body Tube. Now slide the Main Body Tube down over the whole stack. It should touch the table without resistance. Looking good? Slide to the edge of the table and place a finger under the assembly as you tip it to the side, capturing all the internal parts inside. The internals should be fully inside the Main Body Tube and recessed by about 3/8” for the Z10, or 1/2” for the Z15 or Z17. Screw the lubricated Front Cap into the lubricated Body threads until snug. WARNING: Z15 and Z17 threads are Left-Handed!